How to turbo a 2.2L 1st generation probe. Car in pictures is a 89 PGL.

Credits:

• Hanzuki
• ZoomZoom
• TFKChick
• FireKat

DISCLAIMER - WARNING: 

Any damage done to your car directly or indirectly has nothing to do with this website or persons writing this. YOU ARE DOING THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Important observations:

• PGT ECUs do not work in some PGLs. Missing signals and sensors. (If anybody know a solution please do contact me). If you have a PGL with a MAP sensor, bypass the boost so that the MAP does not see boost. My car, being a early 89 does not have such a sensor so I have nothing to worry about. You can bypass the boost by using several one way valves (5 bucks @ Canadian Tire).
• Parts that are mentioned as PGT can also be found in any Mazda MX6 1st generation (turbo) and some in Mazda 626.
• Make sure you are not leaking gas after changing injectors. Make sure there is no fuel in the injector electrical plugs before cranking the engine. It just might be your last crank.
• DO NOT run the turbo without proper coolant AND oil feed.
• Make sure you have at least 2 days off work or alternate means. That's two days AFTER you have all the parts (trust me on this one).
• Be safe, not stupid. Wear proper protective equipment when working.

GT Parts needed (any 1st generation GT will do):

CRT	PART	PICTURE
1	Exhaust manifold gasket
2	Exhaust manifold (including EGR connection nut)
3	IHI Turbo
4	IHI Turbo to down pipe connector	See above (still attached to turbo)
5	Down pipe
6	Intercooler (that is not a probe intercooler in the picture. Get a probe/mx6 one). Grab the brackets for it while you're at it
7	Intercooler piping
8	Intake piping (If you think u don't need a part of it, you probably will so grab it anyways)
9	Bypass valve with bypass valve tube connector (make sure you have the gasket between connector and valve)
10	Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket
11	Turbo down pipe connector to down pipe gasket
12	O2 sensor
13	GT fuel injectors

Other Misc. Parts needed:

CRT	PART	PICTURE
1	Vacuum hose 10 ft (preferably silicone)
2	Turbo oil in fitting (Home depot, brass)
3	Oil tap fitting for block (fits into oil pressure sensor hole, Home depot, brass fittings)
4	Plastic T's for coolant taps and clamps for every hose.
5	Oil hoses, in and out. (6 bar pressure resistance). Oil in 10 ft  @ 5/16'', Oil out 3ft  @ 1/2''.	Just hose - no picture necessary. Visit your local parker hoses or something
6	Coolant hoses in and out (pressure resistant) 3/8'' combined with 5/8 '' at each end works great. 10 ft total.	As above
7	More clamps	DUH!
8	3/8'' Brass oil pan tap (for turbo oil return)

The plan:

1. Fuel Injectors. Replace you stock injectors with GT injectors. To do this you must loosen the intake. You will need some wrenches since sockets won't fit on the fuel rail bolts. Replace injectors. If you need help refer to Haynes manual, chapter 4.
   

2. Remove oil from car. Remove oil pan and place a fitting somewhere in the top part, on the side that is facing the front of the vehicle. Make sure the fitting is applied with Teflon tape. make sure the fitting is blocked off for now but you can remove the blockage at any time. Some kind of cap works great. To remove the oil pan it is recommended to loosen and drop the passenger side sub frame a couple of inches. Also the down pipe and exhaust have to be dropped. Refer to Haynes manual for more info. If it seeps where the fitting goes in the oil pan wait a couple of days for the Teflon to expand. Do not panic. If it's a drip or leak you have to redo application of the fitting. Plug the oil pan fitting with some sort of cap. This is just for temporary use while setting up.
3. Disconnect EGR from manifold.
4. Remove manifold and down pipe all the way back to the cat.
5. Connect a tube, if not already connected from initial turbo setup, from blower to the waste gate actuator. Make sure it is clamped.
6. Bold up the IHI turbo to the GT manifold. Do not forget the gaskets.

7. Place the intercooler in the designated spot and secure it with brackets (u might need to custom fabricate these). You can just loosen up the bumper and slide it in if you don't want to completely remove bumper or radiator. Be careful not to damage AC condenser though.
   

8. Bold up the GT manifold and turbo to the block. Do not forget the exhaust manifold gasket.
   
9. Apply Teflon where necessary and tap the back of the block, where the oil pressure sensor is, keeping the oil pressure sensor on one side of the T and the fitting on the other side.
10. Tap into the heater core coolant lines using plastic T's. Top one is feed, bottom one is return.
11. Run coolant lines to appropriate spots on turbo. Turbo side you need 3/8'', core side you need 5/8''. Find some way to combine the two. I used some brass 3/8''-5/8'' adaptors All my hose if 5/8'' but the last 3 inches that are in front of the turbo that are switched over to 3/8''.
    
    
    

12. Run oil feed line from back of block to appropriate spot on turbo, 5/16''. Make sure you wrap this in some kind of heat shielding (aluminum foil works good) since it's dangerously close to the manifold.  See 3 pictures above.

13. Connect oil return line to turbo but let hang underneath the car, do not connect to oil return fitting just yet, 1/2'' recommended but a piece of 3/8'' can always be convinced too. Your choice.
14. Make sure all hoses are away from belts and heat sources, i.e. manifolds. Also make sure all hoses are clamped @ both Ends.
15. Hook up intercooler, intake and turbo piping as per GT. You need to take out most of the GL piping out for this (including that resonator). GT piping should fit in snuggly and with no problems.
    
16. Make sure all hoses are run right, There has to be a vacuum line running from the bypass valve to any other vacuum line in the car. Use a vacuum line T for this, in any vacuum line in the car.
    
    
    
17. Change O2 sensor from old manifold to turbo and make sure u plug it in the harness.
     
18. Plug EGR tube or else you are going to have a vacuum leak. Use a rubber cap and a clamp or something.
    
19. Plug EGR hookup hole in GT manifold. A bolt and a couple of washers usually do the trick. Adapt as necessary. Weld something on top if needed. If you do not do this, You loose exhaust so your turbo will barely spool.
    
20. Bolt GT down pipe to turbo and adapt with some kind of piping all the way to the cat. Canadian tire piping works fine for this. Make sure gasket is there too.
21. Put oil back in car.
22. Go through this whole list again and make sure everything is done properly.
23. Remove ignition coil wire from distributor or somehow make the car crank but not start.
24. Crank the car until 3 seconds at a time with 7 second pauses until oil starts leaking from oil return line hanging down from turbo. Recommend using some sort of jar or bucket if in garage. If it oil leaks then you oil system is ok. Connect return line to oil pan tap and throw away the cap for the fitting.
    
25. Wait about 10 minutes and look for leaks.
26. Start car and let run for 5 minutes. DO NOT rev up. Let it idle. If turbo produces squeaky sounds you have an oil problem. Make sure there is no leaks. If there is fix them.
27. Once you are satisfied, take the car for a spin. DO NOT boost rite away. Drive her gently, radio off, making sure there is no funny noises. Once satisfied go slowly into boost.

Notes:

• Nobody ever does this perfect. Not even me. There are thing I probably forgot. There are things that are going to go wrong. No ifs about it. YOU WILL NEED TO TUNE AND TROUBLESHOOT you TURBO SYSTEM.
• Blue smoke from anywhere means oil burning.
• White smoke from anywhere means coolant burning.
• Black Smoke out the tailpipe means richness. Don't really worry about it.
• If your car comes close to overheating, you are probably running lean.
• Your next purchases ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO BE and AFR (air to fuel ratio) and a BOOST gauge. Summit has pretty good prices on these things. Try princess auto also. I got the one below for 10 bucks with hookup kit included.
  
• Contact me for questions. firekkatz@hotmail.com

Cheers and remember:

"There's no replacement for displacement, but the turbo in my basement."